What are those signs? Step Back 200 Years and Discover the Crooked River as few have seen it!

CROOK COUNTY, OREGON – Ever wonder what Central Oregon looked like 200 years ago? What wildlife roamed the land? Where Native Americans live or gathered to harvested salmon or other food? What conditions were like and how folks dealt with them? Now you can find out.

The Crook County Historical Society is pleased to announce the installation of 42 roadside signs, from Prineville to Paulina, that are the first written description of our watershed. They are the journal entries of Peter Skene Ogden, an expedition leader for the Hudson’s Bay Company, and they tell a fascinating story of the people, plants, animals, and conditions found here 200 years ago. Even better, they are placed where they were written so that you, the viewer, can read them, view the surrounding landscape, and let your imagination take hold. This isn’t history behind glass. This is history right where it happened!

A Remarkable Story of Adventure, Politics and Beaver

In 1826, the Crooked River was “ground zero” in an extraordinary international affair with beaver trapped in Oregon being auctioned in London to the finest hat-makers in Europe and the world. At the time, the “Oregon County” was jointly occupied by the UK and US, with a final border determination left to the future. The Hudson’s Bay Company, an entity with close ties to British imperial interests, devised a strategy of trapping out beaver from all of the Oregon Country to deter American advancement and allow Britain to strengthen its territorial claims.

On four passes, from Prineville to Paulina, Ogden’s brigades trapped nearly 2,000 beaver. Ogden was clearly impressed with what he encountered, writing about the Crooked that: ““I doubt if we should find another equal to it in any part of this country.” Ogden’s journals are surprisingly entertaining and personal. He describes weather, wildlife, vegetation, Native American encounters, his men and the condition of their horses, and the challenges of the journey. He also shares his thoughts, motivations, and concerns, making his 200-year-old observations remarkably relatable.

Prepare to Be Surprised!

The journal entries reveal a landscape that may be hard to imagine today.

A substantial Native American encampment and salmon fishing weir near Paulina—perhaps our own little Celilo?
Bighorn sheep in present-day Prineville.
A significant Native American presence near Ochoco West and elsewhere along the river.
Thousands of beaver, yet scarce large game and nearly non-existent juniper.
More erratic and extreme winter weather.

These are just a few of the discoveries waiting along the trail. Each sign offers another glimpse into a world that existed here long before the first settler set foot in Crook County.

The Irony & the Arc – What was lost and What We’re trying to Restore

The Hudson’s Bay Company’s campaign to eliminate beaver ultimately failed to stop American advancement, as the lure of verdant farm land proved too strong. But the removal of thousands of beaver and their extensive dam systems fundamentally changed the watershed. The consequences— including incised streams, reduced water storage, and disconnected floodplains—are still with us today.

The good news is that a new chapter is unfolding. Local ranching families and community organizations are working to increase water abundance and improve water quality through a technique known as “process based restoration.” The vision is greater upstream water retention, healthier streams, and may be even the return of swimming holes, fishing spots, and picnic areas. Hence, the story of the Crooked River is still being written!

Come Explore! The Trail Is Waiting for You.

Whether you’re a history buff, a longtime resident, a curious traveler, or simply looking for a new reason to get out and explore Central Oregon, the Crooked River Bicentennial Trail offers something special. Take a drive. Find the signs. Read the journals. Look across the landscape. And travel back 200 years!

You might be surprised by what you discover—and you’ll never look at the Crooked River quite the same way again. Start planning your adventure with the interactive trail map and explore the journal entries at: crookedriverbicentennial.org